Green Machine

THE GREEN MACHINE is an impressive inlet, door, and curtain strap machine that removes intensive manual labor to control your ventilation system. The value of this machine is what makes it most impressive. When compared to the competition, you can expect the same great performance with on average 33% less cost! You'll enjoy the minimal maintenance, multiple mounting options, pull strength, and the warranty that comes with J&D's GREEN MACHINE.
Features:
  • Durable long life backed by a 2 year warranty on motor and gearbox
  • Totally sealed and lubricated gearbox for minimal maintenance
  • Versatile mounting options
  • 2,500 lb pull strength
  • Easy-set limit switches for fast and easy installation
Applications:
Dairy
Greenhouse
Poultry
Swine
Part # Details
Green Machine
Gearbox, 2,500 lb capacity, 1/3 HP, 115V, 60 Hz
Part #
Green Machine
Details
Gearbox, 2,500 lb capacity, 1/3 HP, 115V, 60 Hz
Why do I need a J&D inlet?

Inlets are an essential part of your complete ventilation system. They bring fresh air into your barn or building where it is properly mixed and then circulated and exhausted. A well designed and well located inlet system is more important for good ventilation than the fans themselves.

How do you size a J&D inlet?

One of the biggest mistakes when designing a ventilation system is not providing a proper inlet. This will depend on many factors and variables. In order to get the most out of your inlet system, please contact our knowledgable Engineering and Sales staff that can assist you in this process.

Do you need to frame all four sides of a J&D ceiling inlet?

No. You only need to frame 2 of the 4 sides.

Why are attic inlets used in animal confinement houses?

Attic air inlets are used in poultry houses to allow growers to capture warmer attic air for minimum ventilation, which helps reduce heating fuel costs and relative humidity, along with improving litter quality.

What are the most common issues with attic inlets?

The most common issues are installing the inlets in houses that are not tight, not configuring the correct number of inlets, not understanding the limitations of the attic as an incoming air source, and not understanding the management required in inlet systems.

Why won't my motor arm rotate on my motorized shutter kit?

If your motor arm won't rotate on your motorized shutter kit, please check these three things:

1. Check that the chain is rigged properly. To do this, with the shutter closed, rig the chain with minimum slack and insert the "s-hook" in the outboard hole of the lever arm, with the arm in the 11 to 12 o'clock position.

2. Check the wiring. For 120 volt wiring, twist the red and brown wires together and connect to the thermostat switch leg. Connect the black and white wires together and connect to the neutral. For 240 volt wiring, twist the black and brown wires together and cap with a wire nut. Then connect the red wire to the thermostat switch leg (L1) and the white wire to Line 2.

3. Check the thermostat. The thermostat set points need to be set below the ambient temperature.

What if my motorized shutter kit has too much torque and will damage my shutter?

This is actually a misconception. This motor is designed to accommodate shutters ranging in size from 10" single panel to 60" double panel without damage. The rigging chain to the outboard hole in the lever arm will generate less torque and provide the maximum travel.

Why won't my motorized shutter kit run in reverse?

The motor is designed for clockwise rotation only. The extension spring plus the weight of the louver panel is sufficient to pull the arm back to the start position.

Why is my lever arm on my motorized shutter kit going around and around?

The lever arm is not mounted properly. Position the arm on the shaft so that the set screws are facing away from the motor housing. Slide it on all of the way and then back it off about 1/16". Snug the set screws. Do not over tighten. With the shutter closed, rig the chain with minimum slack and insert the "s-hook" in the outboard hole of the lever arm, with the arm in the 11 to 12 o'clock position.

Why does my lever arm on my motorized shutter kit strike the motor?

If your lever arm is striking the motor, there is too much slack in your chain. Position the arm on the shaft so that the set screws are facing away from the motor housing. Slide it on all of the way and then back it off about 1/16". Snug the set screws. Do not over tighten. With the shutter closed, rig the chain with minimum slack and insert the "s-hook" in the outboard hole of the lever arm, with the arm in the 11 to 12 o'clock position.

Why doesn’t my shutter open all of the way once it is hooked up to my motorized shutter kit?

There is too much slack in the chain. With the shutter closed, rig the chain with minimum slack and insert the "s-hook" in the outboard hole of the lever arm, with the arm in the 11 to 12 o'clock position.

Why won’t my shutter open at all?

There are two possible reasons for this.

1. The static pressure is too high. You may require a 2 stage thermostat to allow the shutters to open on stage 1 and the fan(s) to start on stage 2.

2. There is too much slack in the chain. With the shutter closed, rig the chain with minimum slack and insert the "s-hook" in the outboard hole of the lever arm, with the arm in the 11 to 12 o'clock position.